MOTORCYCLE DIARIES

The journey: From Jagun to Kathalguri, a distance of 63 kms

The Vehicle: ‘The Beast’, a 150 cc black Bajaj Pulsar

The Pilot: Village Daktar Vinay de la Serna

The Co-pilot: His thoughts and his shadow.

The aim: to enlighten the populace about the goings-on within and without a great mind


I commute to work. From Jagun to Kathalguri. A distance of around 63 kms. I like the journey. Not so much for the view it affords as for the time I get for myself, alone with my thoughts. Thoughts that arise following some visual stimulus, transport me to a distant time and memory, thoughts that swirl in my mind leaving me sometimes elated and sometimes depressed. Thoughts…

The key is in the ignition. ‘The Beast’ roars to life. Gears change. I am on my way.

Not so far ahead I see the Sukapha Communion Archway. Memories evoke. Memories of someone dear. A meeting here. Never knowing what would follow. Times spent walking together along the dusty road listening to the non-stop chatter, the playful dance of the eyes, the heavy gesturing with the hands. The road is metalled now and she is far away. If only I could follow this road and not take the turn I have to take…

Schoolchildren. Walking along the road. In blue and white. That was what we wore in our time. Makes me feel old. Maybe I am old. I remember old times. Old friends and classmates. Amar, Kancha, Rajeev, Toto, Mintu, Radhe, Saten, Rakesh, Raju, Rasto, Ranjan, Brikesh, Yang, Aroona, Priyanka, Jitu…Old flames too…I wonder where they are. Both friends and flames.(I am not partial J)

A pretty girl zips past on a scooty. I get distracted. Should have spent more time in the present, I say to myself as I see her disappearing figure in my rearview mirror.

I cross some more familiar landmarks- a bank, a bazaar, a dilapidated cinema hall named after an American General after whom the road I am traveling upon is named. I overtake a few vehicles, let others pass, content at going at my own pace. I reminisce.

I reach Lekhapani. I see two somewhat new landmarks that I have already earmarked as possible questions for any quiz I get a chance to conduct. Hope it is soon.

A bump brings me back again. The stretch from Lekhapani to Ledo is under construction, full of potholes, partly gravel, partly mud. Its dusty when dry, muddy when wet. No respite either way. And if you are traveling in the wake of a truck, you don’t need a ‘buri nazar’ to have your ‘muh kaala’. It automatically is.

The stretch is somehow crossed. An inviting stretch of road lies ahead. ‘The Beast’ simply flies. An autorickshaw passes too close by. I swear. As Vinay Pathak says in ‘Dasvidaniya’ ‘Nayi nayi gadi li hai na, gaali bhi apne aap aa jayegi’.

Ledo bazaar. Seems slightly more crowded today. Maybe its bazaar day. All roads lead to the bazaar. As do the people. Thelawallahs, grocers with their wares on bicycles, autorickshaws. Even cattle seem to be headed that way. There seems to be a larger than normal crowd near the peepul tree. A continuous blowing of the horn combined with some skilful navigation gets me past and I take a breath of relief.

I reach a railway crossing. The speedbreaker slows me down. These monstrocities should be named ‘speedbumps’ instead. I remember reading somewhere that speedbreakers must be made according to certain specifications. Whatever they may be, they were certainly not consulted in making these monstrocities upon the road.

Some more familiar landmarks later, I reach Margherita. Named after an Italian princess- Princess Marguerite. Interesting how the name of an Italian princess came upon to be imparted to an Indian town in a British colony thousands of kilometers away. I wonder whether the Princess was even aware of the existence of such a place and what her reaction was to this piece of news.

I pass the market and the bus stands. I cross the Dehing river. Another railway crossing. This time I have to wait for the train to pass. A pretty face in the window. Was she looking at me? Looked like it. I was once on a bus going parallel to a train almost at the same speed and guess what? I was looking into the face of a pretty young thing and she into mine! Sadly, will it as I might, my bus had picked up speed and she was gone!

The barrier has lifted. Vehicles are surging ahead. Trying to get ahead in some rat race. A horn blares behind me. I move. A little distance ahead, I take the turn that will take me to my destination.

I move parallel to the Dehing river for sometime. There is some sort of a ‘ghat’ there. Must spend some time there on a free day.

More speedbreakers. Shyam cinema hall. A poster of a Salman Khan starrer that I missed. I actually am besotted with the lead actress’s twin assets as well as her chubby face ;). Alas! She is not even there in the poster! Sigh!

The landscape has changed. The urbane surroundings have given way to traditional tribal huts on both sides of the road. Vegetation abounds. The shadows are slightly chilly than the sunnier stretches. Winter is coming.

I take a turn and the vista suddenly changes. I am always mesmerized with the beauty of it. The road snaking its way forward, green paddy fields on both sides with a slight tinge of golden on top, the blue of the sky in the distance, interspersed with one or two shady trees is really a sight to behold. I feel like stopping and just sitting there but who can afford to do that?

I reach the memorial to a certain political leader. He was campaigning in the area for an upcoming election, I am told. Following a thunderous response to his election meeting, he was returning via this same road probably dreaming about a post in the cabinet, a ministry of his own when a hail of bullets hit his convoy. He died on the spot and someone else probably lived his dream- cabinet, ministry, flashing cars and all. All he got was some sandalwood that lit his funeral pyre. The futility of life impresses yet again upon me as I zoom past the memorial.

Lush green tea fields on both sides of the road tell me that I am nearing Pengaree. I have to take a right turn ahead and continue a further ten kilometers upon a road under construction to reach my destination.

Pengaree wasn’t the same ten years back. This whole area was a hotbed of militant activities. Following the surrender of a certain ‘battalion’ of the outfit, the activities have decreased, if not ceased altogether. Still, the road isn’t considered too ‘safe’ to travel alone. Only the last day, a car was held up and looted somewhere in the area. I drive past Pengaree. Two youths on a bike overtake me. The guy at the back looks back at me and says something to his friend. He continues looking at me off and on as I follow them. I become suspicious. Dacoits? Maybe. How does one know who is what? Or what one has in his mind? I let them put some distance between us and follow at my steady pace, a tad nervous.

I enter the forest reserve. Once I cross it, I am through. The portion of the road here is metalled too. Makes for a nice ride. Its only that this is an ‘elephant corridor’ and elephants routinely make use of their path during the winter months.

I stop. I have to take a leak. And I want more distance between myself and those two ‘nasty guys’. As the engine is turned off, there is silence all around. I can hear insects creaking, wind rustling in the trees- all those sounds associated with a jungle. It may be an auditory hallucination but I hear something that sounds to me like an elephant trumpeting. My work is done. I don’t waste any further time admiring the scenery. The Beast flies on.

I cross the two guys a little way ahead. Waiting for me? Suspicions rear head again. Still, they can’t catch me now. I am out of their reach. ‘The Beast’ is stronger, the road is good and I am almost home. Sorry, I am almost hospital.

I can see the tin roofed roadside store that is positioned just in front of my hospital. The road is a bit uneven here but it’s not far. The houses of the village loom on both sides of the road, the school is a bit further up the road and I can see patients waiting.

I turn into the hospital compound, find a shady spot for The Beast and enter the hospital.

Two hours later, I am back on The Beast. A new journey beckons. A new adventure. A new train of thoughts. A new experience.